Modernity meets tradition in the South Korean city showcased in Oscar contender Parasite
Oscar frontrunner Parasite has already made film history. It scooped six nominations and is the first Korean movie to be in the running for best picture, having already bagged the Palme d’Or at Cannes and a Golden Globe. Set in Seoul, Bong Joon-ho’s black comedy thriller is a modern fable about a poor family who con a gullible rich family into hiring them. Hilarious and heart-wrenching by turns, it’s testament to the success of South Korea’s film industry. In the last decade, Korean pop culture has exploded in popularity and put this overlooked East Asian country on the map.
Long overshadowed by its totalitarian sibling to the north, South Korea is wealthy, westernised and one of Asia’s biggest success stories. The birthplace of electronics giants Samsung and LG, it went from being desperately poor to having one of the world’s strongest economies in just three decades. In recent years, rising tensions between the US and North Korea have resulted in a dip in overseas tourists, but the UK Foreign Office maintains that South Korea is perfectly safe and around 140,000 Brits visit each year. The big draw is its energetic capital, but there are also lush mountains, beautiful beaches and islands to explore.
Ancient wonders in a hi-tech city
Over half of South Korea’s population lives in Seoul, making it one of the world’s most densely populated cities. It may be a futuristic metropolis, but you can still find colourful palaces and traditional houses amid the high-rise apartment blocks and twinkling skyscrapers. Its most-visited sight is the 14th-century royal palace of Gyeongbokgung, while Bukchon Hanok Village has 600-year-old wooden houses, quaint teahouses, and workshops where master craftsmen make handmade paper, lacquer paintings and ornamental silk knots.
The country’s favourite pastime is shopping, and every metro station has a mall. It’s more fun to get lost at its sprawling markets, Dongdaemun and Namdaemun, where you can buy everything from paper lanterns to pig intestines or sizzling street food. Art lovers can choose between half a dozen museums, including the Zaha Hadiddesigned Dongdaemun Design Plaza and the cavernous National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. When they want to unwind, Seoulites of all ages head to traditional bathhouses for a soak in the buff. The more elaborate jjimjilbang have open-air pools, nail salons and karaoke rooms.
Escape to the country
South Korea is about the size of England and much of it is mountainous and carpeted in forest, so it’s heaven for hikers. Its loveliest national park is Jirisan, which has 12 peaks over 1,000 metres and beautiful valley trails; at this time of year, it’s blanketed in powdery snow. In 2018, the Winter Olympics were held at Pyeongchang, a ski resort in the northeast.
Its beaches are also world-class, although conservative Koreans don’t tend to strip off or sunbathe. The most popular of its 3,300-plus offshore islands is Unesco-listed Jeju, which is home to dramatic volcanic landscapes and the country’s highest peak. Jeju is also famous for its “sea women” – female divers who make a living by diving for shellfish and seaweed.
Before it became Asia’s most Confucian country, Korea was Buddhist, and dozens of temples are still tucked away in its mountains. Travellers can even spend a couple of nights at a monastery and get a taste of the monks’ life through an official cultural programme called Temple Stay.
Foodie paradise
South Korea’s fiery cuisine isn’t for the faint-hearted. The foodie capital is Jeonju, which was declared a UNESCO city of gastronomy in 2012. In Seoul, there are “meat houses” on every corner, where diners barbecue their dinner at their table. Koreans love to eat out and every meal comes with a multitude of side dishes including kimchi – a fermented cabbage dish that’s credited with anti-ageing powers. Street-food favourites include crispy cinnamon pancakes, chillislathered rice cakes and KFC (Korean fried chicken), which was invented when American soldiers met local tastes during the Korean War.
Koreans are Asia’s biggest drinkers. Craft beer has taken off in the last couple of years, while the traditional tipples are milky rice wine or soju, the bestselling spirit in the world.
Spectacular seasons
Spring and autumn tend to be mild, dry and sunny. Flowers bloom from April to June, and a pinky-white wave of cherry blossom washes from south to north. September to November are quieter and a great time for hiking: the mountains don red, yellow and orange autumn coats of foliage. Winter is long and chilly, while summer is muggy and wet. More than half of the annual rain falls from early July to late August.
Before you go
UK tourists can stay up to 90 days without a visa. British Airways, Korean Air and Asiana (Korea’s second-biggest airline) fly from London to Seoul – an 11-hour flight. Seoul’s international airport is an attraction in itself. It’s equipped with a golf course, gardens, a skating rink, two cinemas and a museum of culture.
Modernity meets tradition in the South Korean city showcased in Oscar contender Parasite
Oscar frontrunner Parasite has already made film history. It scooped six nominations and is the first Korean movie to be in the running for best picture, having already bagged the Palme d’Or at Cannes and a Golden Globe. Set in Seoul, Bong Joon-ho’s black comedy thriller is a modern fable about a poor family who con a gullible rich family into hiring them. Hilarious and heart-wrenching by turns, it’s testament to the success of South Korea’s film industry. In the last decade, Korean pop culture has exploded in popularity and put this overlooked East Asian country on the map.
Long overshadowed by its totalitarian sibling to the north, South Korea is wealthy, westernised and one of Asia’s biggest success stories. The birthplace of electronics giants Samsung and LG, it went from being desperately poor to having one of the world’s strongest economies in just three decades. In recent years, rising tensions between the US and North Korea have resulted in a dip in overseas tourists, but the UK Foreign Office maintains that South Korea is perfectly safe and around 140,000 Brits visit each year. The big draw is its energetic capital, but there are also lush mountains, beautiful beaches and islands to explore.
Ancient wonders in a hi-tech city
Over half of South Korea’s population lives in Seoul, making it one of the world’s most densely populated cities. It may be a futuristic metropolis, but you can still find colourful palaces and traditional houses amid the high-rise apartment blocks and twinkling skyscrapers. Its most-visited sight is the 14th-century royal palace of Gyeongbokgung, while Bukchon Hanok Village has 600-year-old wooden houses, quaint teahouses, and workshops where master craftsmen make handmade paper, lacquer paintings and ornamental silk knots.
The country’s favourite pastime is shopping, and every metro station has a mall. It’s more fun to get lost at its sprawling markets, Dongdaemun and Namdaemun, where you can buy everything from paper lanterns to pig intestines or sizzling street food. Art lovers can choose between half a dozen museums, including the Zaha Hadiddesigned Dongdaemun Design Plaza and the cavernous National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. When they want to unwind, Seoulites of all ages head to traditional bathhouses for a soak in the buff. The more elaborate jjimjilbang have open-air pools, nail salons and karaoke rooms.
Escape to the country
South Korea is about the size of England and much of it is mountainous and carpeted in forest, so it’s heaven for hikers. Its loveliest national park is Jirisan, which has 12 peaks over 1,000 metres and beautiful valley trails; at this time of year, it’s blanketed in powdery snow. In 2018, the Winter Olympics were held at Pyeongchang, a ski resort in the northeast.
Its beaches are also world-class, although conservative Koreans don’t tend to strip off or sunbathe. The most popular of its 3,300-plus offshore islands is Unesco-listed Jeju, which is home to dramatic volcanic landscapes and the country’s highest peak. Jeju is also famous for its “sea women” – female divers who make a living by diving for shellfish and seaweed.
Before it became Asia’s most Confucian country, Korea was Buddhist, and dozens of temples are still tucked away in its mountains. Travellers can even spend a couple of nights at a monastery and get a taste of the monks’ life through an official cultural programme called Temple Stay.
Foodie paradise
South Korea’s fiery cuisine isn’t for the faint-hearted. The foodie capital is Jeonju, which was declared a UNESCO city of gastronomy in 2012. In Seoul, there are “meat houses” on every corner, where diners barbecue their dinner at their table. Koreans love to eat out and every meal comes with a multitude of side dishes including kimchi – a fermented cabbage dish that’s credited with anti-ageing powers. Street-food favourites include crispy cinnamon pancakes, chillislathered rice cakes and KFC (Korean fried chicken), which was invented when American soldiers met local tastes during the Korean War.
Koreans are Asia’s biggest drinkers. Craft beer has taken off in the last couple of years, while the traditional tipples are milky rice wine or soju, the bestselling spirit in the world.
Spectacular seasons
Spring and autumn tend to be mild, dry and sunny. Flowers bloom from April to June, and a pinky-white wave of cherry blossom washes from south to north. September to November are quieter and a great time for hiking: the mountains don red, yellow and orange autumn coats of foliage. Winter is long and chilly, while summer is muggy and wet. More than half of the annual rain falls from early July to late August.
Before you go
UK tourists can stay up to 90 days without a visa. British Airways, Korean Air and Asiana (Korea’s second-biggest airline) fly from London to Seoul – an 11-hour flight. Seoul’s international airport is an attraction in itself. It’s equipped with a golf course, gardens, a skating rink, two cinemas and a museum of culture.