Lyra's Oxford -The spellbinding sights of Oxford act as the backdrop for the second season of His Dark Materials

Philip Pullman’s His Dark Materials trilogy is set in a fantasy universe with shapeshifting companions, Arctic witches and talking polar bears, but one place is familiar: Oxford. His young hero, Lyra, grew up in the university city, which is also where the author has lived since he was an undergraduate. When lockdown restrictions are lifted, fans can explore many of the locations in the books and the BBC’s adaptation – although Pullman’s imaginary city has striking differences from his adopted home.

 

JORDAN COLLEGE

 

Lyra grows up at the fictitious Jordan College, which sits in the same spot as Philip Pullman’s alma mater, Exeter College – other literary alumni include JRR Tolkien, Alan Bennett and Martin Amis (women weren’t admitted until 1979). Unlike Pullman’s rather squalid fantasy college, it doesn’t have a warren of underground tunnels, shafts, vaults and cellars. However, he really did climb up onto the college roof when he was an undergraduate – but he didn’t spit plum stones at passing scholars, as Lyra does. In episode two of the current series, Lyra ventures to Oxford and Exeter College has a cameo, along with Magdalen, Green Templeton College and the city’s most photographed landmark: the Radcliffe Camera, a grand circular library topped by a dome. Exeter also featured in the final episode of Inspector Morse: the TV detective had a heart attack in the Front Quadrangle. Like all of Oxford’s colleges, it’s currently closed to the public, but usually offers free tours of its 17th-century dining hall and neo-Gothic chapel and library. Take a virtual tour at exeter.ox.ac.uk

 

BODLEY’S LIBRARY

 

Neighbouring Exeter College, “Bodley’s Library” pops up regularly in His Dark Materials and its prequel La Belle Sauvage, where it is the hiding place of the Bodleian alethiometer (a compasslike truth-telling device). The real Bodleian Library dates back to 1602 and is a book lover’s fantasy come true. Loveliest of all are the University’s oldest lecture hall and reading room: the ornate Gothic Divinity School and Duke Humfrey’s Library, which has a painted ceiling and is lined with ancient tomes and manuscripts – it doubled as Hogwarts’ library in the Harry Potter films. For a virtual tour go to bodleianvisitors.oxfordvenue.uk

 

PULLMAN’S UNDERWORLD

 

Pullman’s Jericho is a bohemian neighbourhood where boat-dwelling “gyptians” work on the canal while their children run amok. Bounded by the now tranquil Oxford Canal, this historic neighbourhood’s neat Victorian terraces originally housed workers. By the 1950s, it was a notorious red-light district – but it’s now one of the city’s most sought-after addresses. Pullman’s short story Lyra’s Oxford is set in Jericho’s raffish underworld and also functions as a fantasy guidebook to Jericho, complete with pull-out maps. St Barnabas Church has also featured in Thomas Hardy’s Jude the Obscure, a PD James crime novel and a John Betjeman poem, while Inspector Morse fans will want to make a pilgrimage to the Old Bookbinders Ale House (or Arms), which starred in the first ever episode.

 

THE BOTANIC GARDEN

 

Oxford’s Botanic Garden makes a fleeting appearance in episode two of His Dark Materials, and one of its benches is the setting for the finale of The Amber Spyglass, the last book in the trilogy. Established in 1621 for the study of medicinal plants, the UK’s oldest botanical garden is small, but immaculately kept and an oasis of calm on the bank of the River Cherwell. Adult tickets cost £5.45 and visits must be pre-booked. obga.ox.ac.uk

 

THE MARKET

 

Oxford’s Covered Market is a favourite haunt of Lyra’s in the first book in the trilogy, The Northern Lights. In her world, it’s a traditional food market – whereas in Oxford you’ll find everything from independent bakers and barbers to an artisan chocolate-maker and clothing boutiques. Dating back to the 1770s, it’s still the heart of the old town and a popular lunch spot with students and visitors alike, especially the old-school Brown’s Café, which is famous for its apple pie. oxford-coveredmarket.co.uk

 

TREASURE TROVES

 

In episode two, Lyra is charmed by a sinister nobleman at the Pitt Rivers Museum, which doesn’t exist in her universe. Housed in an atmospheric Victorian gothic pile, it’s crammed with treasures from all over the world, from musical instruments and jewellery to weapons. The adjoining Oxford University Natural History Museum has skeletons galore, including a towering T rex, and also made a fleeting appearance in episode two. Entry to both museums is free (though donations are welcome), and visitors must book a timed ticket. See prm.ox.ac.uk and oumnh.ox.ac.uk 

 

His Dark Materials Sunday 8.10pm BBC1 

 

CLAIRE WEBB