Whether you’re a history lover, foodie or film buff, the island of Malta is a gem
Matt Charlton - 15 November 2024
Malta is in the sweet spot in so many ways. Historically, the island is a major rest stop on the trading routes progressing towards the eastern reaches of the globe, amassing a range of influences over the past few thousand years. It appeals to almost every palate, with Italian, English and North African elements, and sits just after the bottle-neck between Sicily and Tunisia. Its climate is governed by the salty winds of the south Med, so even winter temperatures rarely dip below 15°C. Unfortunately, that sweet spot has also made it very appealing strategically to almost any empire you could mention – from Byzantine to British, the latter leaving its dialect as one of Malta’s official languages, along with some red telephone and post boxes. But let us, in this case, focus on the Roman Empire. It is, after all, the reason I’m here.
Not only was Malta a major outpost for the Roman and Holy Roman Empires, but it was also, a tad more recently, an outpost for the American empire’s publicity department. In short, Hollywood keeps making return visits, latterly in the form of Ridley Scott, Paul Mescal and the rest of the Gladiator II cast and crew. The first Gladiator movie was also shot here.
Screen Malta, “the central hub for a vibrant film industry”, offers attractive tax incentives, but also an authentic backdrop. Maltese architecture – crafted entirely from its local limestone, which pops beautifully against the clear blue skies – has enabled the country to stand in for Rome in productions such as Munich and Gladiator, or provide an 18th- and 19th-century backdrop for films such as The Count of Monte Cristo. It’s been a filming location for epics such as Troy, Agora and Game of Thrones. And it strikes me that it would be the ideal setting for a super-immersive Aztec Zone from The Crystal Maze.
I’m staying in the hotel of choice for the Gladiator II cast and crew. The Westin Dragonara Resort (marriott.com) perches on a rocky, dramatic coast beaten by the strikingly blue sea of St George’s Bay, minutes’ drive away from walled capital, Valletta. The facilities would meet the exacting standards of any emperor/A-lister, with widescreen sunrise views over the peninsula. There are interesting sights all over the island, a lot of history to cover, and many winding roads to negotiate, so it’s a great idea to sign up for the convenience and inside knowledge of an escorted tour: tour companies can package a whole trip for you, with flights, excursions, meals and tour managers included. With a deep knowledge of Malta over a timespan of roughly four millennia, my guide, Audrey, has also been an extra on the likes of Game of Thrones (before they moved to Croatia), World War Z and Napoleon. Sadly, she didn’t work on Gladiator II, though she did attend an open day at Malta Film Studios last January, when the majority of the set was still in place.
Though open days at the studios are a rarity – they’re pretty busy making movies – there are many film tours available to take you around the island, from Mdina, where Game of Thrones was filmed, to Popeye Village, home of the 1980 adaptation of the sacred text, starring Robin Williams. You can also visit the pub – called “The Pub” – where Oliver Reed died during the filming of Gladiator. Not one to heed a lesson, their sign outside reads “Thirsty? We’ll get you drunk! Hungry? We’ll get you drunk! Lonely? We’ll get you drunk!”. Needless to say, it’s a classy establishment.
It would be remiss not to mention a presence that ties the entire island together, and gives it its unique character – no, not Ridley Scott, but the Knights of Saint John, a holy order whose legend, wealth and architecture loom large over Malta. Under their reign, they transformed what they called “merely a rock of soft limestone” into a flourishing island. St John’s Co-Cathedral contains an original Caravaggio – the Italian artist was himself a member of the order, until he beat another member half to death.
The Grandmaster’s Palace visibly tells the story of Malta, from the great siege, through the Napoleonic Wars, up to the British Empire. The state rooms still function as a lynchpin of official visits to this day.
For such a tiny island, there is much to fit in – you can charter a Maltese “luzzu” boat to tour the picturesque harbour and partake in fusion cuisine at restaurants such as Don Berto, the Xara Lodge, or Giuseppe’s Bar & Bistro; visit Fort Saint Elmo (heritagemalta.mt) for a brilliantly executed history of invasion and repulsion; and, of course, there are beaches.
As for Gladiator II, I did manage to look around what remained of the set, but I can’t give anything away – you’ll just have to wait until the film is released. Or, if you’re really impatient, watch the (Mal)teaser trailer.
Not only was Malta a major outpost for the Roman and Holy Roman Empires, but it was also, a tad more recently, an outpost for the American empire’s publicity department. In short, Hollywood keeps making return visits, latterly in the form of Ridley Scott, Paul Mescal and the rest of the Gladiator II cast and crew. The first Gladiator movie was also shot here.
Request a holiday brochure from one of our partners
Screen Malta, “the central hub for a vibrant film industry”, offers attractive tax incentives, but also an authentic backdrop. Maltese architecture – crafted entirely from its local limestone, which pops beautifully against the clear blue skies – has enabled the country to stand in for Rome in productions such as Munich and Gladiator, or provide an 18th- and 19th-century backdrop for films such as The Count of Monte Cristo. It’s been a filming location for epics such as Troy, Agora and Game of Thrones. And it strikes me that it would be the ideal setting for a super-immersive Aztec Zone from The Crystal Maze.
I’m staying in the hotel of choice for the Gladiator II cast and crew. The Westin Dragonara Resort (marriott.com) perches on a rocky, dramatic coast beaten by the strikingly blue sea of St George’s Bay, minutes’ drive away from walled capital, Valletta. The facilities would meet the exacting standards of any emperor/A-lister, with widescreen sunrise views over the peninsula. There are interesting sights all over the island, a lot of history to cover, and many winding roads to negotiate, so it’s a great idea to sign up for the convenience and inside knowledge of an escorted tour: tour companies can package a whole trip for you, with flights, excursions, meals and tour managers included. With a deep knowledge of Malta over a timespan of roughly four millennia, my guide, Audrey, has also been an extra on the likes of Game of Thrones (before they moved to Croatia), World War Z and Napoleon. Sadly, she didn’t work on Gladiator II, though she did attend an open day at Malta Film Studios last January, when the majority of the set was still in place.
Though open days at the studios are a rarity – they’re pretty busy making movies – there are many film tours available to take you around the island, from Mdina, where Game of Thrones was filmed, to Popeye Village, home of the 1980 adaptation of the sacred text, starring Robin Williams. You can also visit the pub – called “The Pub” – where Oliver Reed died during the filming of Gladiator. Not one to heed a lesson, their sign outside reads “Thirsty? We’ll get you drunk! Hungry? We’ll get you drunk! Lonely? We’ll get you drunk!”. Needless to say, it’s a classy establishment.
It would be remiss not to mention a presence that ties the entire island together, and gives it its unique character – no, not Ridley Scott, but the Knights of Saint John, a holy order whose legend, wealth and architecture loom large over Malta. Under their reign, they transformed what they called “merely a rock of soft limestone” into a flourishing island. St John’s Co-Cathedral contains an original Caravaggio – the Italian artist was himself a member of the order, until he beat another member half to death.
The Grandmaster’s Palace visibly tells the story of Malta, from the great siege, through the Napoleonic Wars, up to the British Empire. The state rooms still function as a lynchpin of official visits to this day.
Request a holiday brochure from one of our partners
For such a tiny island, there is much to fit in – you can charter a Maltese “luzzu” boat to tour the picturesque harbour and partake in fusion cuisine at restaurants such as Don Berto, the Xara Lodge, or Giuseppe’s Bar & Bistro; visit Fort Saint Elmo (heritagemalta.mt) for a brilliantly executed history of invasion and repulsion; and, of course, there are beaches.
As for Gladiator II, I did manage to look around what remained of the set, but I can’t give anything away – you’ll just have to wait until the film is released. Or, if you’re really impatient, watch the (Mal)teaser trailer.